Frequently asked

Questions we hear most.

How long will a cedar roof actually last in New England?

Properly installed (Cedar Breather underlayment, stainless fasteners, adequate ventilation) and properly maintained: 30–50 years for Eastern white, 30–45 for Western red. Without those three things: 8–15 years. Maintenance matters more for cedar than any other material — most cedar roofs that fail early failed because of moss/algae growth that wasn’t treated, not because the wood itself wore out.

Does cedar really need re-treatment every few years?

Cedar can be left to weather naturally to silver-gray — that’s the traditional NE look — and last 30+ years untreated. Or it can be preservative-treated every 7–10 years to slow weathering and extend life closer to 50 years. Both are legitimate paths; we explain both at quote time. We don’t push the treatment service on every job.

What about fire risk?

Untreated cedar is a Class C fire material. In dense urban areas (parts of Boston, Cambridge, Providence) and some wildland-interface zones, code requires Class A or Class B — which means pressure-treated FRT cedar. FRT cedar is roughly 12–18% more expensive than untreated, weathers slightly differently, and meets the fire code requirement. We verify your jurisdiction’s requirement before quoting.

Can cedar handle ice dams and snow load?

Yes — better than asphalt in some ways. Cedar is lighter than asphalt (about 200 lbs/square vs 250–400 for asphalt), so it’s gentler on framing. The natural ventilation through cedar shingles (with proper Cedar Breather underlayment) actually reduces ice dam risk compared to a sealed asphalt assembly with poor attic ventilation.

What’s the cost of a cedar roof?

Eastern white cedar installed in NE: $14–$22 per square foot ($1,400–$2,200 per square). Western red cedar: $16–$26. FRT (fire-treated): add 12–18%. A typical 25-square home in Eastern white cedar runs $35,000–$55,000. Heritage premium pricing — but a 35-year asset on a coastal home where buyers will pay for the look.

Next step

Get an honest written quote.

Photo-documented assessment. Itemized quote. We’ll tell you if repair makes more sense than replacement.

How we install cedar

Slower, more material, more care.

STEP 01

Cedar assessment + sample selection

Site visit, climate zone consideration, code review for FRT requirement, sample shakes/shingles delivered for in-context approval before order. Material lead time 4–8 weeks.

STEP 02

Tear-off + ventilation prep

Strip to deck. Verify deck for cedar’s lighter weight (cedar is gentler on framing than asphalt or slate). Install Cedar Breather underlayment, ice-and-water shield at eaves and valleys.

STEP 03

Install with stainless fasteners

Course-by-course install at correct exposure. Stainless ring-shank nails properly driven, not over-driven. Copper or stainless step flashing at every roof-to-wall junction.

STEP 04

Final detailing + treatment plan

Ridge cap installed, ventilation screen verified, project photographed. Treatment plan delivered — preservatives if applicable, recommended re-treatment schedule (typically every 7–10 years for untreated, less often for FRT).

Frequently asked

Questions we hear most.

How long will a cedar roof actually last in New England?

Properly installed (Cedar Breather underlayment, stainless fasteners, adequate ventilation) and properly maintained: 30–50 years for Eastern white, 30–45 for Western red. Without those three things: 8–15 years. Maintenance matters more for cedar than any other material — most cedar roofs that fail early failed because of moss/algae growth that wasn’t treated, not because the wood itself wore out.

Does cedar really need re-treatment every few years?

Cedar can be left to weather naturally to silver-gray — that’s the traditional NE look — and last 30+ years untreated. Or it can be preservative-treated every 7–10 years to slow weathering and extend life closer to 50 years. Both are legitimate paths; we explain both at quote time. We don’t push the treatment service on every job.

What about fire risk?

Untreated cedar is a Class C fire material. In dense urban areas (parts of Boston, Cambridge, Providence) and some wildland-interface zones, code requires Class A or Class B — which means pressure-treated FRT cedar. FRT cedar is roughly 12–18% more expensive than untreated, weathers slightly differently, and meets the fire code requirement. We verify your jurisdiction’s requirement before quoting.

Can cedar handle ice dams and snow load?

Yes — better than asphalt in some ways. Cedar is lighter than asphalt (about 200 lbs/square vs 250–400 for asphalt), so it’s gentler on framing. The natural ventilation through cedar shingles (with proper Cedar Breather underlayment) actually reduces ice dam risk compared to a sealed asphalt assembly with poor attic ventilation.

What’s the cost of a cedar roof?

Eastern white cedar installed in NE: $14–$22 per square foot ($1,400–$2,200 per square). Western red cedar: $16–$26. FRT (fire-treated): add 12–18%. A typical 25-square home in Eastern white cedar runs $35,000–$55,000. Heritage premium pricing — but a 35-year asset on a coastal home where buyers will pay for the look.

Next step

Get an honest written quote.

Photo-documented assessment. Itemized quote. We’ll tell you if repair makes more sense than replacement.

GRADE 01

Eastern white cedar — #1 Blue Label

Premium grade, edge-grain only, no flat-grain pieces. 30–50 year service life in NE coastal climate. The right cedar for Maine and coastal Massachusetts saltbox homes. Comes pressure-treated for rot resistance or untreated for natural weathering.

GRADE 02

Western red cedar — #1 Premium

Larger, thicker shakes typical of Pacific NW homes — also used on premium NE shingle-style homes. Heavier exposure rating, deeper texture, 30–45 year service life. More common on architecturally significant builds; less common on traditional coastal cottages.

GRADE 03

Fire-retardant treated cedar (FRT)

Pressure-treated with fire-retardant chemicals to meet Class A or Class B fire codes (required in some NH, VT and dense MA jurisdictions). Slightly different weathering profile than untreated cedar. We carry both.

LAYER 04

Cedar Breather underlayment

A 3D mesh underlayment that creates an air gap between the cedar and the deck. Without it, cedar rots from below within 5–8 years in NE humidity. We install this on every cedar job; some competitors skip it to win on price. Don’t let them.

LAYER 05

Stainless steel fasteners

316-grade stainless (not galvanized, not aluminum). Galvanized nails react with cedar tannins and leave black streaks within 3–5 years; aluminum corrodes in coastal salt-air within 10. Stainless is the only correct fastener for cedar.

LAYER 06

Proper exposure + ridge ventilation

Eastern white: 5″ exposure for #1 shingle, 6″ for shake. Heavier exposure = more wood per square foot = more cost but better wind resistance. Ridge vent properly cut and screened to allow attic ventilation while keeping out wind-driven snow.

How we install cedar

Slower, more material, more care.

STEP 01

Cedar assessment + sample selection

Site visit, climate zone consideration, code review for FRT requirement, sample shakes/shingles delivered for in-context approval before order. Material lead time 4–8 weeks.

STEP 02

Tear-off + ventilation prep

Strip to deck. Verify deck for cedar’s lighter weight (cedar is gentler on framing than asphalt or slate). Install Cedar Breather underlayment, ice-and-water shield at eaves and valleys.

STEP 03

Install with stainless fasteners

Course-by-course install at correct exposure. Stainless ring-shank nails properly driven, not over-driven. Copper or stainless step flashing at every roof-to-wall junction.

STEP 04

Final detailing + treatment plan

Ridge cap installed, ventilation screen verified, project photographed. Treatment plan delivered — preservatives if applicable, recommended re-treatment schedule (typically every 7–10 years for untreated, less often for FRT).

Frequently asked

Questions we hear most.

How long will a cedar roof actually last in New England?

Properly installed (Cedar Breather underlayment, stainless fasteners, adequate ventilation) and properly maintained: 30–50 years for Eastern white, 30–45 for Western red. Without those three things: 8–15 years. Maintenance matters more for cedar than any other material — most cedar roofs that fail early failed because of moss/algae growth that wasn’t treated, not because the wood itself wore out.

Does cedar really need re-treatment every few years?

Cedar can be left to weather naturally to silver-gray — that’s the traditional NE look — and last 30+ years untreated. Or it can be preservative-treated every 7–10 years to slow weathering and extend life closer to 50 years. Both are legitimate paths; we explain both at quote time. We don’t push the treatment service on every job.

What about fire risk?

Untreated cedar is a Class C fire material. In dense urban areas (parts of Boston, Cambridge, Providence) and some wildland-interface zones, code requires Class A or Class B — which means pressure-treated FRT cedar. FRT cedar is roughly 12–18% more expensive than untreated, weathers slightly differently, and meets the fire code requirement. We verify your jurisdiction’s requirement before quoting.

Can cedar handle ice dams and snow load?

Yes — better than asphalt in some ways. Cedar is lighter than asphalt (about 200 lbs/square vs 250–400 for asphalt), so it’s gentler on framing. The natural ventilation through cedar shingles (with proper Cedar Breather underlayment) actually reduces ice dam risk compared to a sealed asphalt assembly with poor attic ventilation.

What’s the cost of a cedar roof?

Eastern white cedar installed in NE: $14–$22 per square foot ($1,400–$2,200 per square). Western red cedar: $16–$26. FRT (fire-treated): add 12–18%. A typical 25-square home in Eastern white cedar runs $35,000–$55,000. Heritage premium pricing — but a 35-year asset on a coastal home where buyers will pay for the look.

Next step

Get an honest written quote.

Photo-documented assessment. Itemized quote. We’ll tell you if repair makes more sense than replacement.

When cedar is the right material

The case for cedar — and the case against it.

Cedar is a heritage material for a reason. Eastern white cedar has been the default roof for Maine coastal homes since the 1700s, and it still works for the same reasons — natural rot resistance, salt-air compatibility, and a weathered silver patina that reads as ‘home’ along the entire Atlantic coast of NE. Done right, cedar gets better looking with age.

Done wrong, cedar is the most expensive roof you can install. Cedar requires proper ventilation underneath (without it, fungal damage starts in year 3). It requires the right exposure for your climate zone. It requires fire-retardant treatment in some jurisdictions. And it requires honest pricing — premium #1 grade Eastern white cedar runs $14–$22 per square foot installed. Anyone quoting less is using a lower grade that will fail early.

GRADE 01

Eastern white cedar — #1 Blue Label

Premium grade, edge-grain only, no flat-grain pieces. 30–50 year service life in NE coastal climate. The right cedar for Maine and coastal Massachusetts saltbox homes. Comes pressure-treated for rot resistance or untreated for natural weathering.

GRADE 02

Western red cedar — #1 Premium

Larger, thicker shakes typical of Pacific NW homes — also used on premium NE shingle-style homes. Heavier exposure rating, deeper texture, 30–45 year service life. More common on architecturally significant builds; less common on traditional coastal cottages.

GRADE 03

Fire-retardant treated cedar (FRT)

Pressure-treated with fire-retardant chemicals to meet Class A or Class B fire codes (required in some NH, VT and dense MA jurisdictions). Slightly different weathering profile than untreated cedar. We carry both.

LAYER 04

Cedar Breather underlayment

A 3D mesh underlayment that creates an air gap between the cedar and the deck. Without it, cedar rots from below within 5–8 years in NE humidity. We install this on every cedar job; some competitors skip it to win on price. Don’t let them.

LAYER 05

Stainless steel fasteners

316-grade stainless (not galvanized, not aluminum). Galvanized nails react with cedar tannins and leave black streaks within 3–5 years; aluminum corrodes in coastal salt-air within 10. Stainless is the only correct fastener for cedar.

LAYER 06

Proper exposure + ridge ventilation

Eastern white: 5″ exposure for #1 shingle, 6″ for shake. Heavier exposure = more wood per square foot = more cost but better wind resistance. Ridge vent properly cut and screened to allow attic ventilation while keeping out wind-driven snow.

How we install cedar

Slower, more material, more care.

STEP 01

Cedar assessment + sample selection

Site visit, climate zone consideration, code review for FRT requirement, sample shakes/shingles delivered for in-context approval before order. Material lead time 4–8 weeks.

STEP 02

Tear-off + ventilation prep

Strip to deck. Verify deck for cedar’s lighter weight (cedar is gentler on framing than asphalt or slate). Install Cedar Breather underlayment, ice-and-water shield at eaves and valleys.

STEP 03

Install with stainless fasteners

Course-by-course install at correct exposure. Stainless ring-shank nails properly driven, not over-driven. Copper or stainless step flashing at every roof-to-wall junction.

STEP 04

Final detailing + treatment plan

Ridge cap installed, ventilation screen verified, project photographed. Treatment plan delivered — preservatives if applicable, recommended re-treatment schedule (typically every 7–10 years for untreated, less often for FRT).

Frequently asked

Questions we hear most.

How long will a cedar roof actually last in New England?

Properly installed (Cedar Breather underlayment, stainless fasteners, adequate ventilation) and properly maintained: 30–50 years for Eastern white, 30–45 for Western red. Without those three things: 8–15 years. Maintenance matters more for cedar than any other material — most cedar roofs that fail early failed because of moss/algae growth that wasn’t treated, not because the wood itself wore out.

Does cedar really need re-treatment every few years?

Cedar can be left to weather naturally to silver-gray — that’s the traditional NE look — and last 30+ years untreated. Or it can be preservative-treated every 7–10 years to slow weathering and extend life closer to 50 years. Both are legitimate paths; we explain both at quote time. We don’t push the treatment service on every job.

What about fire risk?

Untreated cedar is a Class C fire material. In dense urban areas (parts of Boston, Cambridge, Providence) and some wildland-interface zones, code requires Class A or Class B — which means pressure-treated FRT cedar. FRT cedar is roughly 12–18% more expensive than untreated, weathers slightly differently, and meets the fire code requirement. We verify your jurisdiction’s requirement before quoting.

Can cedar handle ice dams and snow load?

Yes — better than asphalt in some ways. Cedar is lighter than asphalt (about 200 lbs/square vs 250–400 for asphalt), so it’s gentler on framing. The natural ventilation through cedar shingles (with proper Cedar Breather underlayment) actually reduces ice dam risk compared to a sealed asphalt assembly with poor attic ventilation.

What’s the cost of a cedar roof?

Eastern white cedar installed in NE: $14–$22 per square foot ($1,400–$2,200 per square). Western red cedar: $16–$26. FRT (fire-treated): add 12–18%. A typical 25-square home in Eastern white cedar runs $35,000–$55,000. Heritage premium pricing — but a 35-year asset on a coastal home where buyers will pay for the look.

Next step

Get an honest written quote.

Photo-documented assessment. Itemized quote. We’ll tell you if repair makes more sense than replacement.

Eastern white cedar · Heritage NE material

Cedar shake roofing for homes that look at the ocean.

Cedar shakes and shingles weather to silver-gray, last 30–50 years on a properly ventilated roof, and look right on three classes of NE home: coastal saltbox, Cape Cod cottage, and shingle-style Newport mansion. They look wrong on almost everything else. We’ll tell you which one you have.

GAF Master Elite · CertainTeed SELECT ShingleMaster · Owens Corning Platinum · Lifetime Workmanship Warranty

When cedar is the right material

The case for cedar — and the case against it.

Cedar is a heritage material for a reason. Eastern white cedar has been the default roof for Maine coastal homes since the 1700s, and it still works for the same reasons — natural rot resistance, salt-air compatibility, and a weathered silver patina that reads as ‘home’ along the entire Atlantic coast of NE. Done right, cedar gets better looking with age.

Done wrong, cedar is the most expensive roof you can install. Cedar requires proper ventilation underneath (without it, fungal damage starts in year 3). It requires the right exposure for your climate zone. It requires fire-retardant treatment in some jurisdictions. And it requires honest pricing — premium #1 grade Eastern white cedar runs $14–$22 per square foot installed. Anyone quoting less is using a lower grade that will fail early.

GRADE 01

Eastern white cedar — #1 Blue Label

Premium grade, edge-grain only, no flat-grain pieces. 30–50 year service life in NE coastal climate. The right cedar for Maine and coastal Massachusetts saltbox homes. Comes pressure-treated for rot resistance or untreated for natural weathering.

GRADE 02

Western red cedar — #1 Premium

Larger, thicker shakes typical of Pacific NW homes — also used on premium NE shingle-style homes. Heavier exposure rating, deeper texture, 30–45 year service life. More common on architecturally significant builds; less common on traditional coastal cottages.

GRADE 03

Fire-retardant treated cedar (FRT)

Pressure-treated with fire-retardant chemicals to meet Class A or Class B fire codes (required in some NH, VT and dense MA jurisdictions). Slightly different weathering profile than untreated cedar. We carry both.

LAYER 04

Cedar Breather underlayment

A 3D mesh underlayment that creates an air gap between the cedar and the deck. Without it, cedar rots from below within 5–8 years in NE humidity. We install this on every cedar job; some competitors skip it to win on price. Don’t let them.

LAYER 05

Stainless steel fasteners

316-grade stainless (not galvanized, not aluminum). Galvanized nails react with cedar tannins and leave black streaks within 3–5 years; aluminum corrodes in coastal salt-air within 10. Stainless is the only correct fastener for cedar.

LAYER 06

Proper exposure + ridge ventilation

Eastern white: 5″ exposure for #1 shingle, 6″ for shake. Heavier exposure = more wood per square foot = more cost but better wind resistance. Ridge vent properly cut and screened to allow attic ventilation while keeping out wind-driven snow.

How we install cedar

Slower, more material, more care.

STEP 01

Cedar assessment + sample selection

Site visit, climate zone consideration, code review for FRT requirement, sample shakes/shingles delivered for in-context approval before order. Material lead time 4–8 weeks.

STEP 02

Tear-off + ventilation prep

Strip to deck. Verify deck for cedar’s lighter weight (cedar is gentler on framing than asphalt or slate). Install Cedar Breather underlayment, ice-and-water shield at eaves and valleys.

STEP 03

Install with stainless fasteners

Course-by-course install at correct exposure. Stainless ring-shank nails properly driven, not over-driven. Copper or stainless step flashing at every roof-to-wall junction.

STEP 04

Final detailing + treatment plan

Ridge cap installed, ventilation screen verified, project photographed. Treatment plan delivered — preservatives if applicable, recommended re-treatment schedule (typically every 7–10 years for untreated, less often for FRT).

Frequently asked

Questions we hear most.

How long will a cedar roof actually last in New England?

Properly installed (Cedar Breather underlayment, stainless fasteners, adequate ventilation) and properly maintained: 30–50 years for Eastern white, 30–45 for Western red. Without those three things: 8–15 years. Maintenance matters more for cedar than any other material — most cedar roofs that fail early failed because of moss/algae growth that wasn’t treated, not because the wood itself wore out.

Does cedar really need re-treatment every few years?

Cedar can be left to weather naturally to silver-gray — that’s the traditional NE look — and last 30+ years untreated. Or it can be preservative-treated every 7–10 years to slow weathering and extend life closer to 50 years. Both are legitimate paths; we explain both at quote time. We don’t push the treatment service on every job.

What about fire risk?

Untreated cedar is a Class C fire material. In dense urban areas (parts of Boston, Cambridge, Providence) and some wildland-interface zones, code requires Class A or Class B — which means pressure-treated FRT cedar. FRT cedar is roughly 12–18% more expensive than untreated, weathers slightly differently, and meets the fire code requirement. We verify your jurisdiction’s requirement before quoting.

Can cedar handle ice dams and snow load?

Yes — better than asphalt in some ways. Cedar is lighter than asphalt (about 200 lbs/square vs 250–400 for asphalt), so it’s gentler on framing. The natural ventilation through cedar shingles (with proper Cedar Breather underlayment) actually reduces ice dam risk compared to a sealed asphalt assembly with poor attic ventilation.

What’s the cost of a cedar roof?

Eastern white cedar installed in NE: $14–$22 per square foot ($1,400–$2,200 per square). Western red cedar: $16–$26. FRT (fire-treated): add 12–18%. A typical 25-square home in Eastern white cedar runs $35,000–$55,000. Heritage premium pricing — but a 35-year asset on a coastal home where buyers will pay for the look.

Next step

Get an honest written quote.

Photo-documented assessment. Itemized quote. We’ll tell you if repair makes more sense than replacement.

Eastern white cedar · Heritage NE material

Cedar shake roofing for homes that look at the ocean.

Cedar shakes and shingles weather to silver-gray, last 30–50 years on a properly ventilated roof, and look right on three classes of NE home: coastal saltbox, Cape Cod cottage, and shingle-style Newport mansion. They look wrong on almost everything else. We’ll tell you which one you have.

GAF Master Elite · CertainTeed SELECT ShingleMaster · Owens Corning Platinum · Lifetime Workmanship Warranty

When cedar is the right material

The case for cedar — and the case against it.

Cedar is a heritage material for a reason. Eastern white cedar has been the default roof for Maine coastal homes since the 1700s, and it still works for the same reasons — natural rot resistance, salt-air compatibility, and a weathered silver patina that reads as ‘home’ along the entire Atlantic coast of NE. Done right, cedar gets better looking with age.

Done wrong, cedar is the most expensive roof you can install. Cedar requires proper ventilation underneath (without it, fungal damage starts in year 3). It requires the right exposure for your climate zone. It requires fire-retardant treatment in some jurisdictions. And it requires honest pricing — premium #1 grade Eastern white cedar runs $14–$22 per square foot installed. Anyone quoting less is using a lower grade that will fail early.

GRADE 01

Eastern white cedar — #1 Blue Label

Premium grade, edge-grain only, no flat-grain pieces. 30–50 year service life in NE coastal climate. The right cedar for Maine and coastal Massachusetts saltbox homes. Comes pressure-treated for rot resistance or untreated for natural weathering.

GRADE 02

Western red cedar — #1 Premium

Larger, thicker shakes typical of Pacific NW homes — also used on premium NE shingle-style homes. Heavier exposure rating, deeper texture, 30–45 year service life. More common on architecturally significant builds; less common on traditional coastal cottages.

GRADE 03

Fire-retardant treated cedar (FRT)

Pressure-treated with fire-retardant chemicals to meet Class A or Class B fire codes (required in some NH, VT and dense MA jurisdictions). Slightly different weathering profile than untreated cedar. We carry both.

LAYER 04

Cedar Breather underlayment

A 3D mesh underlayment that creates an air gap between the cedar and the deck. Without it, cedar rots from below within 5–8 years in NE humidity. We install this on every cedar job; some competitors skip it to win on price. Don’t let them.

LAYER 05

Stainless steel fasteners

316-grade stainless (not galvanized, not aluminum). Galvanized nails react with cedar tannins and leave black streaks within 3–5 years; aluminum corrodes in coastal salt-air within 10. Stainless is the only correct fastener for cedar.

LAYER 06

Proper exposure + ridge ventilation

Eastern white: 5″ exposure for #1 shingle, 6″ for shake. Heavier exposure = more wood per square foot = more cost but better wind resistance. Ridge vent properly cut and screened to allow attic ventilation while keeping out wind-driven snow.

How we install cedar

Slower, more material, more care.

STEP 01

Cedar assessment + sample selection

Site visit, climate zone consideration, code review for FRT requirement, sample shakes/shingles delivered for in-context approval before order. Material lead time 4–8 weeks.

STEP 02

Tear-off + ventilation prep

Strip to deck. Verify deck for cedar’s lighter weight (cedar is gentler on framing than asphalt or slate). Install Cedar Breather underlayment, ice-and-water shield at eaves and valleys.

STEP 03

Install with stainless fasteners

Course-by-course install at correct exposure. Stainless ring-shank nails properly driven, not over-driven. Copper or stainless step flashing at every roof-to-wall junction.

STEP 04

Final detailing + treatment plan

Ridge cap installed, ventilation screen verified, project photographed. Treatment plan delivered — preservatives if applicable, recommended re-treatment schedule (typically every 7–10 years for untreated, less often for FRT).

Frequently asked

Questions we hear most.

How long will a cedar roof actually last in New England?

Properly installed (Cedar Breather underlayment, stainless fasteners, adequate ventilation) and properly maintained: 30–50 years for Eastern white, 30–45 for Western red. Without those three things: 8–15 years. Maintenance matters more for cedar than any other material — most cedar roofs that fail early failed because of moss/algae growth that wasn’t treated, not because the wood itself wore out.

Does cedar really need re-treatment every few years?

Cedar can be left to weather naturally to silver-gray — that’s the traditional NE look — and last 30+ years untreated. Or it can be preservative-treated every 7–10 years to slow weathering and extend life closer to 50 years. Both are legitimate paths; we explain both at quote time. We don’t push the treatment service on every job.

What about fire risk?

Untreated cedar is a Class C fire material. In dense urban areas (parts of Boston, Cambridge, Providence) and some wildland-interface zones, code requires Class A or Class B — which means pressure-treated FRT cedar. FRT cedar is roughly 12–18% more expensive than untreated, weathers slightly differently, and meets the fire code requirement. We verify your jurisdiction’s requirement before quoting.

Can cedar handle ice dams and snow load?

Yes — better than asphalt in some ways. Cedar is lighter than asphalt (about 200 lbs/square vs 250–400 for asphalt), so it’s gentler on framing. The natural ventilation through cedar shingles (with proper Cedar Breather underlayment) actually reduces ice dam risk compared to a sealed asphalt assembly with poor attic ventilation.

What’s the cost of a cedar roof?

Eastern white cedar installed in NE: $14–$22 per square foot ($1,400–$2,200 per square). Western red cedar: $16–$26. FRT (fire-treated): add 12–18%. A typical 25-square home in Eastern white cedar runs $35,000–$55,000. Heritage premium pricing — but a 35-year asset on a coastal home where buyers will pay for the look.

Next step

Get an honest written quote.

Photo-documented assessment. Itemized quote. We’ll tell you if repair makes more sense than replacement.